09/03/2012

In honour of British Pie week

I bring you, Oxtail Pie.

The recipe and many other photos will follow next week when I'm not falling down tired.


And from my friend Elizabeth, who used to run the esteemed Pie Off competition in London, an award;

As an emeritus member in good standing of the council, I hereby confer upon this pie all honors and benefits pursuant to the Isembard Kingdom Brunel award for structural integrity. Please wield this crust and this filling responsibly.

02/03/2012

Calzone, focaccia and all kinds of wonderful.

I had booked a Focaccia baking class at Carluccio's on Garrick Street a while ago, almost the very second I got their emailed newsletter. £20? Yes please!

Tuesday 28th dawned bright and sunny, and I determinedly set off on time, only to be waylaid by a small and very excited yappy-type dog on my way to the bus stop. So I walked him all the way back to his house, where another neighbour was telling his mum that she thought her dog had escaped. Once he realised he was home he ran indoors with lots of tail wagging. Not even a kiss goodbye. I set off again, only pausing to get stuck in traffic on the bus and for the bus driver to stop and give directions to a person that felt it necessary to stop the bus, on the opposite side of the road to the route she wanted, and ask directions to the hospital. There was Much Tutting on our bus.

As it happens, delays notwithstanding, I made it to Carluccio's by 10.30, as had another lady, so the lovely shop manager took us upstairs to the private function room which had been set out with baking stations, complete with ingredients, bowls and Chef's whites. I had brought my own apron because chef's whites rarely cater for ladies who are ample in the chest and hip department. I was glad I did, because I felt far more at home in it.

The Head Chef for Carluccio's Walton, Kevin, talked us through the plan for the morning, and the lovely Valentina demonstrated the different flours that we might use in Italian cookery. 00 flour is absolutely gorgeous. It's so finely ground that it glides through your fingers leaving almost no trace. Valentina told us about a Pugliese bread made from semolina flour, which of course I now want to try.

Pugliese bread

We finished our most excellent coffees, and off we went. I don’t have any photos of this bit, because dough-strewn fingers and a Canon G9 do not mix.

Add the fresh yeast to the lukewarm water. Mix in well with a fork.

Put the 00 flour in the bowl, mix in the fine salt distributing it well with your hands.

Make a well in the middle of the flour.

Add 1/2 the yeasty water and try to bring the dough together, only adding more water a touch at a time. (Flour absorbs moisture, so sometimes you may not need all the water)

Bring the dough into a ball, squashing it down into the bowl to get all the bits mixed in.

Turn it out onto a lightly floured board and knead it just enough to bring it together and gain some smoothness. You do not knead this dough for as long as you do for a traditional white bread dough.

Oil the bowl, oil the dough lightly too.

Place the dough in the bowl, cover and leave to rise in a handy warm corner for an hour.


So we did all that. We didn't get too messy though my hands got nice and soft from the amount of olive oil I had on them.
We were then given some dough that had been made earlier by Kevin, so had already proved. We were about to be allowed to play with that and make calzone. Valentina had informed us that calzone actually means trousers, which induced some laughter, as filled trousers just sounds wrong. Later on we were told that it could also mean socks, which also didn’t help.

Off we went again. Chef Kevin demonstrated what we had to do, we quaked a bit, and then got on with it.


Tip the dough out into the board, cut off a third, place remainder back in the proving container.

Gently fold the dough under so that it becomes a rounded shape.

Lightly roll out the dough to a circle (ish) roughly 1cm thick.

Heap the ragu or vegetable filling in the middle.

Top with buffalo mozzarella.

Bring the top half of the circle down over the filling and press your fingers all around the filling, so you can almost feel the board through the dough.

Trim off any excess and then crimp the edges. I cannot explain how to do this in writing! I expect you could get away with just crimping the edge with a fork, but they must seal, or the filling will leak out.

Place on some greaseproof paper and send them off to the kitchen!


We bid farewell to the calzone, but we had no time to mourn, because next we made focaccia.


Tip out the remaining two thirds of the dough and press out into whatever shape you fancy. Start pressing at the outside edges and work your way in to the middle so that the middle doesn't get too thin.

Make deep indentations all over with your fingers, and press in your choice of toppings so that the dough will rise up around them.

Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt.

Then it was off to the kitchens with that too!


We cleaned up and out came the Prosecco. I had the most delicious, icy lemonade instead and Valentina mentioned that there would be a surprise. I had a feeling I knew what the surprise might be, having seen Twitter that morning, but kept very quiet.

The door opened and in came Mr Carluccio himself. I'm not entirely sure that I have smiled so much since I met Tom Baker. Signore Carluccio, you rank right up there with Dr Who for me. One of my food heroes was sat directly in front of me, and I was almost overwhelmed. This isn't the "OMG he's famous!" nonsense, because that doesn't phase me one jot, everyone goes to the loo, right? It's more the fact that I have watched and listened to and admired this man for so many years via the TV screen that it didn't feel quite real to have him, literally, within arm's reach, but we did, and it was absolutely fabulous.

Antonio

Signore Carluccio. You have NO IDEA how excited I was.

His lovely, long suffering PA, Al, came in briefly but sadly she had to dash off and Do Things so we didn't really get to meet her properly.

He sat with us for a long time, happily chatting, telling us a fairly colourful joke and sampling the calzone when they came up from the kitchen surrounded by wafts of warm, Italy scented air. The lady whose calzone he sampled was terrified whilst he was eating it, but he said it was very good so she was happy. Poor girl, I'd have been scared too!

Calzone

Calzone ii


It's quite difficult to eat a calzone tidily, I will say that now, especially when the filling oozes out of the sides and is still searingly hot, but we managed. I cut mine in half and packed some away for later because I was meeting a friend and I know she would like it.


Then the focaccia arrived. Trays of hot, steaming baked deliciousness. The mixed scents of baked black olives, tomatoes and olive oil soaked rosemary was heavenly. I think we were all very happy with how they had turned out, but really had no room to eat any as we'd just demolished some fairly hefty calzone, so once they had cooled a bit they were photographed, cut in half and wrapped. Then wrapped again. And again. Okay so maybe we had gone overboard a bit with the olive oil, but it was such GOOD oil.

Due focaccia

Focaccia close up

Focaccia

Antonio sat with us for quite a while, and having him just chat with us about cooking, give us tips on recipes and talk about filming Two Greedy Italians is a memory I shall treasure for a long time. He had to leave, so we set about tidying ourselves up, and packing our baked goods away. We were all given goodie bags as well, with a bag of 00 flour, the neatly packed dough we had made and some fresh yeast.

We were joking about taking photos of Antonio - I had managed a surreptitious shot of him while he wasn't looking - when suddenly Valentina said "Oh shall I go and get him? He won't mind!" and was gone. Cue most of us going "Oh! Oh my, erm..." and then he was back.

We had lots of photos taken with everyone's different cameras and phones and I am happy to say I overcame the shyness that was eating at me, and asked Chef Kevin to take a photo with my camera too please if it isn't too much trouble ta ever so.

Group

I got to one arm hug Mr Carluccio as well (his jacket was made of the softest material EVER and I didn't want to let go) and then he really did have to depart, leaving in his eminent wake a bunch of ever so slightly shell shocked cooks saying to each other variations on "Did that just...I mean...we...He came in and...oh my."

I have to say a huge thanks to Carluccio's for organising the event, and making it possible. It would have been a lovely day anyway, even without the addition of a cheeky Italian man, but that pretty much put the icing on the already very good cake.

David Oliver Fine Foods

A few weeks ago I was incredibly lucky to attend a foodie event with my lovely Kavita, from over at Kavey Eats. Frankly, just spending time with Kavey is enough, but this time, we got to eat some extremely good food as well.

We met up as I was wandering along Regent’s Street, map in hand. I always turn the wrong way out of Oxford Circus tube station, without fail, even when I have done all the prep in the world. For once, and I suspect only this one time, I got it right, so Kavey ended up walking behind me for a bit before she realised it was me.

We found the venue, 51 Beak Street, with no problem, but we were early. Oops. The poor chap in charge of the venue was a bit flustered, and the chefs were running late, so we took ourselves out of his misery and found a coffee shop. A small hint for other coffee shops – do  not give a person who is a regular coffee drinker a cup that is 1/4 foam. They will only hand it back to you and ask you to top it up with the coffee that they have paid for. Very good coffee, I might add.

A pleasant half hour of nattering later, and we wandered back. Lo! People had arrived. Lots of people. I am remiss in not remembering everyone’s names, but to be honest, there were quite a few of them! I was also a bit busy ogling the venue and coveting it rather a lot. Oh you could do a very good Christmas in that place.

Once everyone has assembled, we were led down a very beautiful wooden spiral staircase by David. David is a partner in David Oliver Fine Foods, the company – and people – that we were there to meet.

Look what nice boys they are.

A country boy through and through, David admitted that they had underestimated the weight of London traffic, hence them being late. We all got settled into the various sofas and chairs, shivered a lot because it was a basement and quite cold, then Oliver bounced down the stairs and introduced himself.

They told us how they got started, where they had met, and how the idea for this range of dishes had come about. Primarily they are chefs, and passionate about getting this country to eat more game. I’m all for that. They have come at this from the angle of chefs wanting to get good food out there to people, not from a ‘Let’s make some money with merchandise!” angle and I found that very appealing.  Both men are lovely. Funny, personable and genuine in their passion to get people eating more game and why not? This country does it so well, and we do have an abundance of it.

Quite how they’ve found the time to develop this I’m really not sure, as they both have full time jobs - David’s a chef and Oliver runs his own catering company now – but they have found the time and I’m very glad that they have.

They were going to prepare one of the ready meal recipes from scratch for us, and also cook off one of the packed meals. Then we would get to blind taste and guess which one was which.

This was done with great skill, whilst talking to us animatedly about their business and plans for the future, plus telling us how Waitrose have gotten behind them and supported them every step of the way.

“So you’ve got no backing, no equipment and no money. Just this idea?”

“Yes!”

“Okay then. We can run with that.”

After more discussion, and the agony of delicious smells coming from the kitchen, it was time to taste. Two plates were brought out, and we all took some. Both plates were absolutely delicious – smoked bacon and puy lentils are a very winning combination - and apart from some very spurious guesses, we admitted that we really couldn’t tell which was which. The quality of both was excellent.

Then it was back up the stairs to the main room, which had been transformed into a very elegant dining room. A long table, all beautifully set for lunch. We even had candles, napkins and two sets of cutlery. I couldn’t help thinking how lovely it would look set up for Christmas.

We took our places, and were served for the first course Rabbit with Courgettes, White Beans and Lemon.

Beautiful, juicy, meaty rabbit – which the boys still prep by hand – perfectly cooked beans, decent sized chunks of courgettes and a distinct taste of lemon. Most ready meals that promise lemon never deliver, unless it’s a actually a lemon pudding.

Rabbit with white beans

Perfect. I would be delighted with this for a dinner on an evening in alone.

Next in came the dish we had already tasted, Guinea Fowl with Puy Lentils and Smoked Bacon. I think it’s safe to say that we were more than happy to keep eating it!

Guinea fowl with puy lentils

I think most of us came away more than impressed with the quality of these meals, and I for one will certainly be hunting them out the next time I am in Waitrose, or do an Ocado order.

We were given some meal to take home too, and I can report back that the Venison and Sweet Potato casserole is equally as stunning.

David Oliver Fine Food deserves to go from strength to strength, and I wish them all the very best.

19/02/2012

Olive Branch recipe: Deconstructed Caponata

I love Italian food. Ever since my first exposure to it way back when I was a small child spending the summer holidays with my family in a friend’s apartment in Southern Italy. We stayed in Pontecagnano, a small industrial town on the coast, almost as far South as you could get without being in Sicily. The main industry seemed to be a tomato canning plant just outside town or at least it was, until it got blown up. We awoke to an entire town covered in tomatoes and tomato residue. Everything was tinged a watery pink for days and for weeks afterwards dented tins of San Marzano tomatoes would wash up on the beaches. Everyone said they didn’t know why the explosion had occurred, but the speculation of it being the work of La Famiglia was rife.

We made friends easily, helped by my Dad speaking Italian like a native and his pretending to be a long lost son of the area so our car didn’t get vandalised. You did not leave on the GB sticker. One year we forgot, on our first night, and came down to a car made toothless by broken windows.

We got to try the real food of Italy, not just the restaurants, but what people ate at home and in celebration. You’ve not lived – or known what full feels like - until you have eaten a traditional Italian wedding feast. That really is the gift that keeps on giving, sometimes even after a few of the guests are in a food coma.

The drawback to discovering all of that wonderful food is that it does spoil you for any Italian food that you get in England, that I admit, but I keep on trying different places here anyway, ever hopeful that it will have that taste that I remember.

The most elusive thing for me has been the tomato. Once you have had a simple sauce in Italy, when you try to recreate it here, very often the tomatoes are the things that can let it down. Napolina had seemed to be the best brand so far, but even then they didn’t taste quite right. Recently Cirio has become available here, and they are very good indeed. What I wasn’t expecting was Sainsbury’s Finest.

I spotted Pomodori D’Oro when I was doing an online shop, and bought a tin on the offchance. I can safely say that they are absolutely lovely. The smell when I opened the tin took me straight back to those heady summers in Italy, and the juice that they come in is thick, almost like a purée, not a watery residue to be drained off.

Tinned yellow tomatoes 

Yellow Tomatoes

The colour is pure, yellow sunshine, and that inspired me to put together a version of a much loved recipe. I had some aubergines, and some olives and that, to me, says caponata. It’s a sweet sour Sicilian dish, and utterly addictive when eaten with chunks of fresh bread. I’d love it even more of Giorgio Locatelli or Francesco Mazzei were to make it for me, but that’s never going to happen, though a girl can dream, yes?

I had some of the lovely olive oil that Olive Branch had sent me left, which just made cooking this all the more worthwhile. I spent a very happy Saturday afternoon pottering in the kitchen and to my great delight the weather stayed nice and the light remained good, despite my faffing about. So here, for your delight and my tummy, is a very simple Deconstructed Caponata.

1 medium aubergine

1 tin whole yellow plum tomatoes

Aged balsamic (I used Carluccio’s. Thick and syrupy wonderfulness. You need the sweetness.)

Small black olives

Thick bread slices (I used home made)

Olive oil

Cut the aubergine in half lengthways, and slash deeply with a sharp knife, taking care not to cut through the skin. Douse liberally with olive oil, and sprinkle with sea salt. Place on a baking tray and grill until golden brown and quite soft.

Aubergine section ii

While the aubergine is cooking, put the tomatoes in a shallow pan, add some olives, olive oil and drizzle with balsamic. If you can’t find the syrupy aged vinegar, then try some balsamic syrup. Merchant Gourmet do a good one and most big supermarkets have it.

Tomato, oil, vinegar, pan

Add in a good handful of black olives.

Homegrown Essex olives

I was lucky enough to have some home-grown, oil cured olives from my very own tree to use, (yes, it appears you can grow olives in Essex if you wait about ten years for the tree to fruit…) but any decent black olive will do although please, buy them with the stones in, as the flavour is infinitely superior. By all means de-stone them before cooking, but don’t use those ready stoned ones you can buy, they all seem to look like otters’ noses and taste of rubber. You know the ones. The kind that you get on takeaway pizza, all texture and no taste.

Heat the tomatoes and olives gently until everything is bubbling. Don’t stir it, just let it cook and the flavours will happily merge into one another.

IMG_5209

Drizzle or drench your bread slices with olive oil. I used home made bread because that’s what I had, but any decent bread that you like will work.

Loaves   Bread slices iii

Toast the slices in a very hot griddle pan until golden and griddle-marked. Of course you do not have to do this, you can just toast them in that wonderful modern invention, The Toaster, but  I prefer the flavour you get from a griddle pan and also, well, I am a bit poncey at times.

Once the bread is toasted, the dish just needs putting together.

Toast, aubergine, tomatoes, and top with any sauce and olives. Drizzle on more olive oil because you can, then eat and enjoy.

Plated close up

Plated

With many thanks to  http://myolivebranch.co.uk/ for sending me their lovely oil, and to Sourced market in Kings Cross station for selling me some more!

12/02/2012

Snickerdoodles!

No, it’s not a new swear word, it’s a cookie. A very, very good cookie, first made for me by my dear friend Denise when we stayed with her in New England. A whole new world opened up to me – the world of American cup measurements. In some ways I find it easier, and in others…I’d much rather have a set of scales to hand. It probably just depends what side of the bed I got out of.

Anyway, yes, Snickerdoodles.

Buttery, cinnamony, sugary cookies with a melt in the mouth texture. My husband loves them, and he’s going away for a week tomorrow on a course for work, so I thought I’d make him some to take with him. A little bit of home in a tin.

Oddly, after extolling the fun of American cup use, I wanted to make these using a scale. The reason being that it is awfully cold in my kitchen at the moment (2 outside walls) and the butter will NOT soften to the right consistency to measure it with a cup without bending the handle, so scales it was. I managed to find a recipe using British measurements and off I went.

http://www.theamericanresident.com/2011/10/snickerdoodles-the-amazing-anytime-of-the-year-cookie/ is where I found the recipe, but I made a few tweaks. Come on, it’s me, that always happens, plus I remember some of the ingredients in the recipe that Denise used so I wanted to get as close to her recipe as possible.

Snickerdoodles

375g self raising flour

1/2 tsp Cream of tartar

1/2 tsp baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 tsp cinnamon

150g butter, room temperature

75g lard (or white Flora but lard was all I had)

280g caster sugar

2 large eggs

For rolling the cookies in:

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon mixed with 2 tablespoons of caster sugar

Method

Preheat oven to 180C.

Sift together flour, cream of tartar, baking soda and salt into a bowl.

Put butter and sugar into another bowl. Use an electric mixer to mix the butter and sugar for about 3 minutes, until fluffy.

Mix in the eggs with the butter and sugar. Reduce speed to low; gradually mix in the flour mixture, upping the speed as needed.

Shape the dough into balls of about 1.5 to 2 inches depending on how large you like your cookies. I made mine about the size of a walnut.

Try and get them into the sugar/cinnamon mixture soon, rolling them around to get completely covered in cinnamon and sugar. I found the chilling the mixture made it a lot easier to handle, and all I had to do today was open the window a bit!

Place the dough balls on cookie sheets lined in baking parchment or a non-stick baking liner. They will spread out, so I placed them about 1.5” apart.

Bake until edges are golden. That took about 10-12 minutes for my ones. Obviously the bigger you make them, the longer they take. 

It’s not a problem if you overcook them a bit, but the longer you cook, the less of a chewy centre they have. Once they are out of the oven and on a cooling rack, then you face the problem of not eating them all while they are still warm.

I promise you that there will be photos soon, but I have managed to drop my SD card into the body of my computer tower because I’m a numpty. The link above has photos, so you can pootle over there and have a look.

I can’t believe I did that.

06/02/2012

Bread and olive oil, the staff and stuff of life.

A few weeks ago, I was sent some lovely olive oil by the very nice people at Olive Branch. Now it is fair to say that possibly olive oil, not blood, runs in my veins, though any good phlebotomist who has had a fight with my veins may disagree.

I love the smell, the taste, even the feel of it on my skin (don’t wipe it off, rub it in, it is an excellent moisturiser) and when they asked me if I’d like to try some of their oil of course my pretty much instant answer was “Yes please!”

It arrived and I baked some fresh bread to go with it that very same day. All I needed was that bread, a bit of balsamic for a second tasting and that beautiful, greengold elixir.

I had a very indulgent afternoon, let me tell you. Just me, the warm bread and the oil.

Photos, because words cannot do it justice.

Bread corner Bread soakedOil, vinegar, bread

The oil is rich and smooth tasting, but this bottle didn’t have the peppery notes that I’ve tasted elsewhere. It was fresh, and green tasting, if that makes any sense, redolent of crushed wet grass. Utterly lovely, and perfect with simple bread. I admit that  did also add some Carluccio’s aged balsamic after the initial tasting, because when you have that, and olive oil of this quality, then it would be foolish not to.

I’ll leave you with words from Olive Branch, telling you all about their beautiful oil.

Our Olive Oil has been produced at a community co-operative in the south of Crete. The co-operative is owned by its members, all of whom are responsible for picking the olives themselves, during the early harvest which takes place around November/December each year. Once the Olives are picked, the Oil is cold pressed within hours to create a fresh and grassy taste.

The Oil is made from the Koroneiki Olive, which is native to Crete and has high natural antioxidant content. The Olive is picked at the stage when the ripening begins as this is when the Olive is packed with vitamins and antioxidants. This creates a superior quality olive oil which is indicated by its exceptionally low acidity level of <0.3%.

Our Olive Oil will take you on a taste journey – starting with a fresh and grassy taste, moving to tomato like notes and ending with a pepper like finish.

http://myolivebranch.co.uk/

31/01/2012

Dessert in a hurry!

Did you ever have one of those days where you started off with the greatest of intentions, and planned out what you were going to bake, only to oversleep and have to do it all in a rush? Well, that was my Saturday.

It was my own fault, I went out clubbing and we got to bed very late, er, early…okay it was about 3am.

I had planned to get up early and make a Parsnip Cake that I had seen on the wonderful Sabrina Ghayour’s blog.

http://www.sabrinaghayour.com/2012/01/23/parsnip-honey-walnut-cake-divine/

She put it together for the Portobello Market ‘Roots Festival’ (Fri 27th & Sat 28th January) and, having tasted it, I can very much agree with her that it is indeed divine. However, I woke up at midday, and we still needed to go out and get all the ingredients, so that minor oops put paid to my fine cake baking idea. I will still be making it though, just at a more leisurely pace.

I needed a dessert that would be quick and very easy, using only ingredients that can be found at your average corner shop. So one jaunt later we came back with two Jamaican Ginger cakes, one long Madeira cake, a carton of ready made custard and a jar of fine shred Breakfast Marmalade. As we already had eggs in the fridge, I did what Simon calls my Ready Steady Cook impression and cue the assemblage!

Cake and Butter Pudding

or

“A conceptual variation on bread-and-butter pudding - alternating slices of madeira cake and Jamaican ginger cake, glued together with marmalade and then covered in a marmalade-and-custard mix, and then baked.”  ~ S Stacey, Jan 2012 

2 x Jamaican Ginger cakes

1 x long Madeira cake (or two smaller ones)

1 jar fine shred marmalade (sweeter kind, not too bitter)

1 carton of Ambrosia custard

2 tbs Bells whisky

3 eggs

Slice all the cakes up into 1/2 inch slices. Ginger cake is much easier to slice if it’s been in the fridge!

Feed some of the ends of the ginger cake to patient boyfriend. Eat other end yourself.

Empty the marmalade into a microwaveable jug or saucepan. Warm gently to loosen and stir in 2 tablespoons of whisky.

Sandwich the cake slices together with 3/4 of the marmalade mix and arrange them in a deep baking tray. I did alternate slices because it looked pretty. The madeira cake does tend to make it look like you have a pan full of Paddington Bear’s marmalade sandwiches.

Mix the custard with the rest of the whisky’d up marmalade, and beat in three medium eggs. Douse the cake slices liberally with this golden, creamy stickiness.

That is pretty much it as far as the prep goes! I baked it at around 170ºC in a fan oven for about 1/2 an hour. Just long enough to cook the eggs through and make it all bubbly. This deserves a bigger photo.

It was absolutely gorgeous, and very filling. This fed 6 of us at a dinner party later that day, and two of us again the next day, served cold with some ice cream.

Now obviously this is not an everyday pudding as it is certainly no lightweight but for a quick and luscious hit with no fuss? Perfect. You could vary it easily as well – lemon and vanilla cake with lemon curd or lime marmalade perhaps with limoncello, or chocolate and ginger cake with cherry jam and Kirsch – whatever you fancy! It is your dessert after all.

Photos courtesy of Simon Stacey, full set viewable at http://dancefloorlandmine.smugmug.com/Food/2012-01-28-Cake-Pudding/21240512_dcG7Rq#!i=1690793004&k=cTBk55F

09/01/2012

I expect I will regret this but...

...there's been a few things in the media this week that have really touched some nerves, and I'd better get it out there before I explode. I'm going to make a pot of tea first, because frankly, that's only proper. Of course, to satisfy the fat haters out there, I would have to make it with skimmed milk (an ABOMINATION) in case I put on an ounce. Oh and have a quick run around the block. Should I happen to want to have one of my home made, free from preservatives and additives digestive biscuits, which I make only rarely, as in maybe once a year, why then I'd have to do at least an hour on a treadmill, just to ensure that I don't offend society by becoming fat.

Oh. Wait. I AM fat. Apparently I can offend many people in Society merely by my appearance already. I find this an absolutely awesome thing. Jeremy Clarkson actually has to SAY something before that happens, so that makes me much more influential than he is without even putting in any effort so I shall revel in that for a bit. See me revel. Look, me, revelling I am.

On to the Media. There is a person called Ros Reines who writes for The Telegraph in Australia. I think she is the equivalent of our Liz Jones in The Daily Mail here. Sad, definitely screwed up over her own life, and quite bitter with Serious Issues. She decided to have a go - AGAIN - at Julie Goodwin, winner of the Australian Masterchef competition. Coincidentally, I believe Ms Reines had just lost a lot of weight with the Jenny Craig program, so she might have felt the need to crow a little. Julie bit back, eloquently and quite rightly so. You can read her response here. I tell you now, I know who I'd rather have dinner with.


Of course, that response brought out some really rather horrible replies. I'm happy to see that quite a few of them are gone now, but I read them, and they went mainly along the lines of fat people are lazy and greedy and do no work. They should get to the gym, stop being so lazy and soon they will be thin.

Oh thin! Glorious thin! How we should all strive to be thin, then all our problems would fade away. We would be lithe and wonderful, and we could be 'ourselves' at last, or at least that's what the lastest spate of Weightwatchers ads would have us believe. Do you know what we really would be? Thinner. That's it. We don't stop being us, our problems don't go away. We're. Just. Thinner.

When I got married, I weighed in at 20 stones. I saw my wedding photos and I died inside. I dieted. I managed to get down to 15 stones and there I stuck. Induction Level Atkins for two years AND I STAYED THE SAME. I went on to eat more foods, because you do get very bored on the Induction level and I still eat low carb generally. I put on a couple of stones but have now stayed at the same weight for roughly 4 years, regardless of how I eat.

Do you know what I have now? A far more comfortable experience when I sit on a hard seat, that's what, and added neuroses about what I eat. Neuroses about being SEEN eating. Food is forever divided into good or bad, not just food. If I deny myself anything, I feel great. If I give in, I like what I eat, but I feel bad. In what way is this better? Before I lost it, I actually didn't care about my weight. I didn't really notice it, to be honest. It was other people who pointed it out. Other People seem to have no problem commenting on my weight, or on anyone's weight for that matter. "Oi! Eat some pies!" shouted at a skinny person is just as bad, just as damaging as "Oi! Fat bitch!" shouted at a fat peron.

Growing up, I was told I was fat. As an adult, looking back at school photos, I had the shock realisation that I hadn't been fat after all. I was bigger than the other kids, but that was it. Bigger. Taller, larger feet, wider, and more broadly built. Kids being kids of course, I was fat. To my Nan, I was fat. Thankfully, to my wonderful mother, I was just me.

I do distinctly remember squishing my stomach together with my hands once, and saying to my dad "I have all this to lose!" I would have been about 7 at the time. Of course what I was doing was squishing skin, not fat.

Adults used to say to me "Oh you'd be so pretty if only you lost weight." as if that is an okay thing to say to a ten year old child. I wasn't amused about that, and I believe I told the man so, in no uncertain terms. I admit that I do still look at my face in the mirror, and try to see the thinner face undeneath, but that way madness lies, so I do stop if I actually catch myself doing it.

The point of all this rambling? I'm not sure if there is one, but there is a worrying emphasis on BEAT OBESITY these  days, instead of BE HEALTHY. It's like Obesity is the new Evil Thing that must be vanquished. Even the esteemed Michelle Obama has gotten in on the act.


I can see where she is coming from, but villifying a nation of children because of what they look like is not the way to do it. That just makes them targets, as if they weren't targeted enough already. Teach people, teach the parents how to cook properly, and to eat well, that is the way to go. Teach health, not size.  If you teach someone to cook with real food, to avoid the processed, high sugar foods out there (you look just how much sugar is in one of those 'light' cereal bars) then weight loss MAY OR MAY NOT follow but that wouldn't be the object of the exercise would it? Getting healthy would be the object. You see, it's what is on the inside that counts. The outer layers are not always indicative of what is going on inside, and I'm a bit fed up of everyone assuming that being overweight means that a) you eat and eat and eat all the time, and b) that you are not healthy. 

I fully accept that there are people out there who DO eat and eat and eat, and weigh far too much than is good for their poor bodies. If you eat six big bags of crisps every day, and a pizza or two every night, with extra added takeaways and snacks and sweets, well, yes, of course you are going to be fat. 

Or are you? 

I have seen many people eat like that who do not put on weight, but I cannot see the inside of their arteries. The same way that you cannot see the inside of mine, yet people assume that I am unhealthy, even though I don't eat anything akin to what many thin people do. Thin and Unhealthy exists, believe you me, just as Fat and Healthy does. Talking of Fat and Healthy, let me introduce you to another inspiration of mine, Ragen Chastain.


Just watch her dance, read her words. I don't need to say anything more about her, not really.

The other thing that I have a problem with is all of these Help the Fat People programmes. You see, they always choose people who eat terribly badly. Even the Food Hospital, which is normally very good, the one time they showed a lady who genuinely had PCOS (Polycystic Ovarian Syndrome which inhibits fertility and makes weight loss very difficult. I know. I've got it.) they chose a girl who ate nothing but white bread, crisps and cheap sausages. Once she started eating vegetables and fruit, cooking properly and cut out the processed foods, hey presto, she lost weight, the acne cleared and the PCOS allegedly got better. Why not choose someone who has PCOS, is overweight, yes, but eats right and yet still has all the problems? Now that is a challenge, but that doesn't make for a very interesting TV show, does it? 

If you show a table, laden with goodies, pies, cakes, takeaways, all sorts of high sugar, highly processed foods, and have a glib, suave, THIN presenter saying "This is what you ate IN A WEEK!" and there you have just painted a picture for the nation. That is what all fat people are like. Must be, it's on the telly innit?

Fat people crying also seems to make for good TV as far as I can tell. Watching these poor people on display while they get shown what they 'truly' look like with a camera on a stick? "THIS is what your stomach and stretch marks look like from way down here!" Well, nobody looks good from that angle, not even Angelina would look good from there so I suspect it is a proper scare/repulse tactic.

They get put on exercise machines that terrify them, they are shown being bullied and screamed at in a truly horrifying Fat Camp. "Hell yeah!! Let's laugh at the chubbies getting what they deserve! After all, it's all their own fault for being lazy and greedy, right? All fat people are dumb and slow aren't they? Ha ha so funny. That girl's got great hair though, and he looks like a jolly chap. I'm sure they don't mind."

NOT SO.

Fat people are the same as thin people. We have fears and pains and hurts and terrors, just like anyone else. A heavy exterior doesn't make for a thick skin. Oh we laugh it off, and come back at the haters with a sharp, witty retort but it still knifes deep into us. Victimised for a thing that may not be our fault, but we are ALWAYS told that it is. 

Are you ill? It'll get better if you lose weight.
Do you need that piece of cake?
Should you be eating that?
Losing weight would make you feel so much better! Surely you can see that?
You have asthma? Lose weight.
You have PCOS? Lose weight.
Lose weight first, and then we'll see about looking into the other stuff. No, really, we will.
Did your leg fall off? Oh I'm sure losing some weight would make you feel better.

If a fat person goes to the Dr, all the focus is on the weight, and not the actual illness. That is NOT the way it should be but it is, and many times we don't get taken seriously unless we raise merry hell.

I even got told by one consultant that he didn't understand why I was fat, his daughter had PCOS and she wasn't fat. Then he showed me a photo of her. Showing a photo of a beautiful, flawless, slim girl to a person who felt worthless anyway? Nice one.

Genes, baby. Genes. She had a very slim, very pretty, Asian mother. He was a fat, round Jewish guy so it could have gone either way, and she got the thin genes. Don't even get me started on this Gillian McKeith/Nigella Lawson comparison photo meme that's doing the internet rounds. The only physical difference between the two photos is that one is of a lady that got good genes and the other is a photo of one that didn't. Oh and one lady is all dolled up for an evening out, with make up and hair all done, whilst the other is in a photo taken after days in a jungle eating bugs and feeling sick. I might not agree with what she does, but damn, that was harsh and pointless.

I found his dietary advice to be non-existant. It amounted to "Take these fat loss pills, you eat too much." despite the fact that I had already managed to lose 4 stones, told him what I ate and STILL had all the physical problems that PCOS gives you. Which is why I was there. But apparently Xenical would make it all better. I did not let my insurance company pay his bill.

At least no-one has tried to tell me that my MS would get miraculously better if I lost weight. That would probably not go well for them.

Anyway. This has all gotten a bit too poor me for my liking, so I'll finish with what the real problem is.

Fat Hating is a trend that is alarming. Jamie Oliver, as much as some people dislike him, made it all about the health, and not about picking out just the fat kids. What Mrs Obama, and our own Mr Cameron are doing is, sadly, picking out the fat kids. The Fight Against Obesity is all very well, but what then happens to the thin kids? The ones who get missed, because they can't be unhealthy, they aren't fat so they must be doing just fine, right?

The answer to that is no. Thin children lacking in decent nutrition will suffer as much as a fat child lacking in decent nutrition. They can be fully fed at every meal and yet still lack the vitamins they need to keep their brains and bodies on track. We owe more of our appearance to our genes than to our diets but our health is dependent on a good diet. By that I mean a way of eating, not a diet as in that thing that thousands of us go on in January and give up in March.

Thanks to my genes, there was no way that I wasn't going to be this shape, need glasses and go grey prematurely. There was no escaping it. It's time to stop victimising the fat people because of their appearance, and start trying to work on how to make PEOPLE IN GENERAL more healthy. Fat, thin, or inbetween.

Making people feel that they are useless, and that their appearance, their very bodies are all wrong, and that they are a waste of space or useless or ugly unless they become thin, that is never going to be the right way to do things.

I'll say this now. Anyone says to me that nothing tastes as good as thin feels? They are going head first into a vat of Nutella.

EDIT:
Yes, an edit, for clarification. In case it wasn't clear - and I fully accept that it might not have been because, you know, RANT - by no means do I think that saying  "Fat Acceptance!" when people cannot walk properly, or even breathe, is in any way proper, right or natural. If you cannot walk because your fat is in the way of your own knees, or your fat is actaully suffocating you, then you need serious help and assistance to fix it. How you got there I do not know, but I expect serious reeducation is needed.

Being the fattest woman or man ever is not an aim to aspire to. I will be honest and say that it repulses me. I'm sorry, but it does. When I've seen shows like 1/2 Ton Dad, I am both horrified that they got this way, and desperately sad for them too. I cannot imagine how they got there, or how they are going to get back to anything resembling 'normal'.

What I DO object to is people who are large, but functioning perfectly well, eating healthily and doing fine medically, being villified by the press and by the medical profession based purely on appearance. Size is not always an indicator of health. I have had one person close to me recently suffer a heart attack, and he was o n the low side of the BMI, ate well and still had blocked arteries. The Dr missed it. Well, he looked slim, yes? Judge a book by its cover, and you will forever miss what is going on inside.

Home made digestive biscuits

I am a great fan of digestive biscuits. I always have been, especially with a nice chunk of cheese to accompany them. I will admit to dunking them in tea as well, but not when they have cheese on them of course. That would just be a waste of cheese. And tea. Neither of which should ever be wasted.

Hang on. I haven’t had any tea today. Wait right here will you? I won’t be long.

[the potter’s wheel interlude film goes here]

Right then.

I found this recipe a few weeks ago written up by Marianna over at Swirl and Scramble. http://swirlandscramble.blogspot.com/2010/01/homemade-digestive-biscuits.html

It was originally from Pascale Weeks, posted here: http://scally.typepad.com/cest_moi_qui_lai_fait/2006/01/digestive_biscu.html

I never got around to making it, because I usually get the Baking Urge early in the morning, and using the food processor to grind the oats is too loud a job to do at that time of day. So I kept forgetting about it. Until yesterday. It was the weekend, I was awake, husband was awake, I had all the ingredients and so off I went. For once I followed a recipe exactly.

They are utterly delicious. No they are not McVities, but they are a definite close runner up and they DUNK. I will say that I made them thicker than 3mm, because it was quite difficult to get the dough to spread out, but then that just makes for fewer but chunkier biscuits. You can roll it out under cling film, so I did that initially and then patted/pushed it out further by hand. It squishes together beautifully if there are any cracks, and it’s so easy to push the left over bits together so you can cut out some more.

It also occurs to me that if I add a bit more brown sugar, and only grind half the oats, they will essentially be HobNobs without the trans fats and corn syrup, or whatever it is they use to get you addicted these days. This does of course mean that I can make chocolate covered digestives and hobnobs, as the lovely Sarah from www.sarahbakes.co.uk did here:

 http://sarahbakes.co.uk/?p=1130

I haven’t made Sarah’s recipe yet, but that’s only  because I don’t have any wheatgerm in the house. There will be a forthcoming experiment, never fear.

Anyway, to the recipe!

Digestive Biscuits

100 grams wholegrain flour

100 grams porridge oats

1 teaspoon baking powder (I will cut this to 1/2 tsp next time)

50 grams brown sugar

100 grams salted butter, softened (I used Lurpak with Sea Salt, because it’s what I had in the fridge and it needed using)

2 tablespoons milk

Put the oats in a food processor and grind them until they take on a powdery texture.

Put them in a bowl, and add in all the other dry ingredients.

Mix in the butter with your hands, or a pastry mixer, or a fork – oh well, however you want really -  until it becomes crumbly. I might try this in the food processor next time on a low speed.

Add the two tablespoons of milk. (I reckon Golden Syrup instead of milk would make them truly into HobNobs…)

Squish it all together into a big, flapjacky ball then wrap it in a plastic bag and out it in the fridge for 15 minutes. 20 would be okay too, but no longer else it goes rock hard.

Take it out of the fridge after the allotted time, and then roll it out on a lightly floured surface as much as you can, or just spread it out with your hands. It is quite sticky, but when you cut out the circles (I used a 6cm cutter) they do hold together. It’s quite a well behaved dough.

Place on a non stick baking tray and bake at 180C for 15 minutes. I put a non stick liner on the tray just in case and I set a timer. TOLD you I stuck to the recipe this time.

They are fabulous – and I really love the salt/sweet taste. If you want them sweeter, just add a little more sugar.

Close Up   Tower

06/01/2012

There is such a thing as beauty in commercial design.

And this is it.

Coley Porter Bell Beer can     Coley Porter Bell packaging

I love these designs, and the others across the range, so much, that I just sent an email to the company who came up with them for Morrisons. Yes, I know, I’m a sad old art student but they are so good.

People who buy the value ranges shouldn’t be made to feel less than anyone else, and some of those value ranges really are a very poor example of customer focussed design, pointing the focus back towards the Brand and The Company instead.

My email to Coley Porter-Bell.

I have just seen your designs on this site

http://www.thedieline.com/blog/2012/1/5/m-savers.html

and felt that I simply had to email you to congratulate you on a fantastic job.
So many other brands are BRAND and COMPANY focussed, and these designs are so totally not that. They are not about the Company, but about the product and the customer and I have to say, they are truly wonderful.
As as ex-design student of old, they almost made me tear up a little because they were so utterly perfect. Clean, beautiful lines, and lovely drawings. You even used a proper old pint mug! They relay such a feeling of warmth too.
Bravo to you all. Fabulous job. I will be finding a Morrison's, purely because I want some of your designs in my home. Plus, also, you know, Jam.
Pat yourselves on the back and have a big cookie each. Marvellous.

Bloody good show, Morrison's and Coley Porter-Bell. Credit where credit is definitely due.

EDIT 09/01/2012 – A Reply from Stephen Bell, Creative Director.

Dear Lisa,
Thank you so much for sending your email about our work for Morrisons M Savers range. I can't tell you how much it means to get such lovely feedback. Myself and the whole team here have worked incredibly hard on the range and are very proud of it.......interestingly your feed back pretty much summed up what we are trying to achieve with the designs.....real foodiness, a touch of 'modern retro' and of course pure and simple appeal. We hope that Morrisons customers have the same reaction you do.
Thank you for brightening up our morning and taking the time to comment. Our designers are delighted!
Kind regards
Stephen

Yay!

05/01/2012

Mediaeval Mince Pies

Seven years ago, I decided to have a go at making 'real' mincemeat. I saw it on a TV show and thought oooh yes. I love fruit and meat together so why not? I also detest most shop bought mincemeat so I thought making my own would make sense.

Thanks to a lovely lady called Barbara who transcribed the recipe from the River Cottage TV show for me I got started.


Here it is.

'Real' Mincemeat


  • 1kg lamb mince
    Generous slosh of apple cider brandy (I used a good cup’s worth)


Mix these together (making sure to break up the mince - as he says, you don't want mini hamburgers in the middle of the pies!)

  • 1kg dark brown sugar
    1/2 kg raisins ( I sub sultanas as I really don't like raisins)
    1/2 kg diced Cox's apples
    A cup and a half of suet
    Mix these in to the mince


Then he added his personal touches:

  • 1/2 cup of mixed peel (I chopped this as finely as I could, as I hate bits of peel)
    1 tsp grated orange zest
    1 tsp grated lemon zest
    1 cup of chopped Medjool dates
    4 heaped tsp mixed spice
  • 2 tsp cinnamon
  • A good grate of nutmeg.

I also added in a cup of chopped glacé cherries.

Mix all this together really well,  and leave for at least a week. I made some pies with it at the time and it was nice, then I packed it away in the fridge and, quite literally, forgot about it.

Seven years on and it’s STILL ABSOLUTELY FINE. I mixed in a good few tablespoons of dark rum as it did need more liquid, and then made Mediaeval Pies with it.

The Pastry by my friend Sue.

  • 185g plain flour
    95g butter
    95g caster sugar
    1 egg
    30ml water (you will probably need much less than this - just use it to bind it together).


Mix the sugar and flour together, add the egg. Add the butter and work until it’s at the fine crumb stage. Bring together with the water.

I used these amounts:

  • 370g plain flour
  • 190g butter
  • 190g caster sugar
  • 1 egg
  • 50 ml water

I will say that it made a very, very soft pastry, so I worked in more flour until it got to a rolling consistency then put it in the fridge overnight. It was a dream to roll out once it had warmed up a bit! Next time, FAR LESS WATER!

It is a very short pastry, almost like a shortbread in texture.

IMG_4993    IMG_4996

They ended up as flying saucer shapes because I didn’t have proper pie pans, and they are actually far easier to eat that way!

Apologies for the formatting here, I have no idea what’s going on!

For Cambridge people who are veggie/have allergies

This is a heads up on where NOT to eat, from a friend of mine who, sadly, did and regretted it.

This is a very poor show, and certainly not what Customer Service is meant to be about! Allergies are not something to be laughed at, people don’t have them for fun.  Would they have laughed and eye-rolled at someone with a severe nut allergy? Not for long, I suspect…

~~~~~~~~~~~~~

“So, if you have allergies *do not* go to the Wok'n'Grill/ Coach and Horses in Cambridge, ditto if you are vegetarian.

I asked *specifically* if they had a veggie wok, and they told me they did, put my food in a sieve then put meat in a sieve on top of it. When I pointed this out, they rolled their eyes and I told them I had a severe shellfish allergy, another eye roll, they then took the same wok they had just fried oysters in, put a spoonful of water in it and swirled it around, then threw my (newly collected plate of food not covered in meat from the sieve) food in.

I asked *again* for a veggie wok and said I had allergies, and with more eyerolling they told me they had just thoroughly washed the wok - it still had pieces of food in it! They had one wok and two pots of what looked like water or soup that they just threw everything into without separating it in any way or making sure there was no cross contamination.

Had I not been paying attention as much as I was, I could have ended tonight in hospital or worse.

It was lovely seeing folks, but even though I ate only the veggie prepared food there (rather than the fresh stuff they tried to kill me with) I have a severe headache and nasty upset stomach, nausea etc. - all the symptoms I get when having eaten meat products, so I bet the rest wasn't separated properly either.

Yes, I am reporting them. This isn't just an annoyance, the shellfish thing is dangerous.”

29/12/2011

East London Steak Company saves Christmas

Well, okay, Christmas wasn’t in danger of being banned or anything, but I certainly had a lack of The Christmas Feeling. Having a husband with Norovirus will do that, certainly to him!

You see, we had a wonderful thing lurking in our fridge. It had arrived on the Tuesday and I was very excited to start Cooking the Big Meal. No, really, I was!

This is what we had. Look at that, all in its old fashioned brown paper-wrapped glory.

Pressie   Gravy   All the things   Card  

The packaging was fabulous, and beautifully done. I had a great time pulling out all the packages. There was a Christmas card too, and a recipe sheet! There may have been much squeaking, and then there was a moment of panic as I tried to work out where it would all go but I got that sorted out. There’s something terribly right and proper about a perfectly rectangular block of beef dripping wrapped in brown paper. All this for £45? I think I know what I shall be getting next year too.

Next…the unveiling.

THIS is what colour beef is meant to be, Supermarkets. THIS. With creamy, dense fat, the fat that actually surrounded the meat when it was on the animal, not a bit stuck on the top to add some hope of flavour to the hunk of bright red meat that you insist the customer wants. Only because you have brainwashed them over the years into believing that bright red with no fat is how meat should look, you silly, money-grabbing, quick profit people. Hopeless. If only you invested as much time and money into proper producers instead of mass produced blah…

Look at this piece of beef. It came with a card, so I knew where it was from, what breed, when it was slaughtered. It may not make much of a difference, but it’s information that I like to know.

Proper colour   trimmed rib close up   Trimmed rib  

The beauty of dry aged meat is that is lasts longer in the fridge. Our plan for Christmas Day dinner had to be put on hold due to the Outbreak, so back in the fridge the beef went.

On the 27th, Tex was well enough to countenance food. Out came the meat, and boy did it look and smell fabulous. It does smell strong, I won’t deny that. At first it is a bit of a shock but then you realise that that is how properly aged meat is meant to smell. There’s an almost toffee-like scent to it.

Next I painted the whole rib with dark French mustard, then stuck the beef rub that ELSC sent us, in the cutest little brown envelope, to the mustard.

Mustard and rub 

Into the oven it went, at 200ºC (fan). 15 minutes at that temperature and oh my…the smells that were starting already! Then the oven went down to 160ºC and I cooked it for 25 minutes per pound. Yes, I realise that this is the timing for well done, but Tex prefers it that way and as this was to be the first Christmas thing he’d eaten, it was going to be the way he liked it. My bit was still pink though, as it turned out, even though the photos didn’t capture that.

 Cooked    Soft focus ii

Lovely meat! The second photo accidentally came out with soft focus and film star sparkles, but it deserved it.

I took it out of the oven. and wrapped it very well in foil so that it could rest properly. I didn’t even steal a tiny piece of the fat!

While it was resting, I cooked buttered cinnamon carrots, potatoes roasted in the beef fat (which is why they are so dark in places) and also made a very easy honey roast parsnip recipe that Lorraine Pascale did on her TV show. I will always do them that way from now on.

Peel and cut parsnips into small, evenly sized pieces. Stir fry in a little olive oil with a touch of salt until starting to turn golden brown, lower the heat as far as it will go, put the lid on so they steam cook though, then when soft, up the heat to crisp up the edges then drizzle with honey/maple syrup.

Dinner plate   Lorraine Pascales parsnipsPotatoes   Sliced beef

And that was dinner.

I can safely say that this was the best piece of beef that I have ever cooked. It didn’t disappoint in any way, even though it was well done. It still stayed tender, and juicy and absolutely flavourful. It has a rich taste to it, but not cloying at all. Very beefy, but not with that overly iron-rich, gamey flavour that some aged meat can have.

I still have the marrow bones, the gravy and the beef chipolatas in the freezer, because Tex really wasn’t up to a huge meal, so that’s something else to look forward to.

East London Steak Company, you have yourself a loyal follower.

http://www.eastlondonsteak.co.uk/

28/12/2011

Spiced Apple Gammon

Part of my usual cooking repertoire is ham, or gammon. As we are lucky enough to have a very good local butcher, I get it from them, and I usually buy an unsmoked slipper joint.  I liked smoked, to be honest, but the general House consensus is that it can be too salty so I go with the unsmoked.

Guide to piggy cuts here: http://www.deliciousmagazine.co.uk/articles/the-meat-guide-bacon

I have bought a high quality, rare breed gammon joint before to try. Yes, I’m afraid I cheated on my butcher. I’m so sorry Mark. I hope you can forgive me.

I have to say it ended up being as dry as anything, despite me cooking it in exactly the same way that I always do, so I have returned to Mark the Butcher in good old Harold Hill, because he’s great. Mark is the kind of butcher that simply won’t stock something if he thinks it isn’t good enough for his customers. If he doesn’t have ribeye in stock, it’s because it was a) not good enough quality and b) far too high a price. A few weeks ago he stopped stocking oxtail because the price had gone up to higher than sirloin. Higher than sirloin steak. Can you imagine? Anyway, this is why we love him, and also because the meat that he stocks is always fabulous. Plus you get Cockney humour plus cooking advice when you go in, it’s great! This may seem like a blatant advert for them, but they are so worth it.

(Caring F & J, 112 Hilldene Avenue, Romford, RM3 8DT, 01708 373792  should you wish to visit)

Where was I? Oh yes, cooking gammon.

Because Husband has been ill over Christmas, I didn’t cook the gammon when I’d meant to, and we had no freezer space to fit it in as a whole piece, so Boxing Day I decided to just cook it off in the slow cooker, then at least it would be ready to slice for sandwiches when Tex felt better, plus it would fill the kitchen with Christmas smells. As I was feeling woefully lacking in anything Christmassy at all, I felt that this would be a good idea.

I had found some rope lights upstairs, so I brought them down, draped them over the back door out of the kitchen that we don’t use any more, and brought Christmas to me.

It really was a very simple procedure, but the result was just lovely.

1 x piece of gammon that will fit in your slow cooker

1 bottle Ringden Hall Farm apple juice, Spartan variety. (any pressed apple juice will do, or you can use sweet cider too)

2 cinnamon sticks

That’s it. I didn’t pre-soak the gammon, because I forgot, hence me using the sweeter apple juice. It needed nothing more than that.

I set the slow cooker to auto and just left it be for 3 hours, then turned the meat over and let it cook for another 3. Turned the heat off, and let the meat sit in the stock for another hour. Lifted it out, then wrapped it in foil to sit and cool overnight.

It was absolutely gorgeous, and I will definitely cook it this way next time. I probably wouldn’t use the stock for soup though, due to my not soaking it. It might just be too salty.

 Gammon

It went very well indeed with the Pain d’Epis!

26/12/2011

Lorraine Pascale’s Pain d’Epis

I have a confession to make. I cannot make bread. Anything to do with yeast based cookery seems to fox me completely, and I just don’t have that ‘touch’ that some people appear to. It tastes okay, but whenever I make bread it always seems very heavy and dense. I don’t mind it, not really, but after one slice you generally want a lie down and a bit of a nap. I also have an innate dislike of recipes that take too long and look like a lot of faff. It comes of not being able to really stand up for any substantial length of time. Lots of step is fine, so long as they are quick ones!

I was watching Lorraine Pascale’s Home Cooking Made Easy, and she made what seemed to be a stunningly simply loaf called Pain d’Epi.  These loaves are usually shaped into an ear of corn, and look like this.

http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/15319/pain-d039epi-holidays

“I can make that!” I said to myself and then had to go out and buy the right flour before I could do it. Then I had to rewatch the show hurriedly before it disappeared off iPlayer, as stupid BBC decided not to put that recipe on their website.

I tried it today. My husband has been quite ill over Christmas, so I thought a nice loaf of proper, real bread would be a treat for him whilst still being a non-threatening food for his stomach. It’s worked incredibly well, despite some hiccoughs on my part when it stuck to the pan it was rising on, and had to be scraped off and reshaped. Oops.

Here be the recipe. Thank you Lorraine! I finally have an easy loaf for weekend scoffage, that doesn’t weigh everyone down.

Loaf

Pain d’Epi (not quite, as I didn’t shape it in the end)

275g strong while bread flour

1 x sachet of dried yeast (I used Allinsons) the kind you add straight in to the flour.

1 tbs olive oil

1 tsp salt (I will probably cut this down to 1/2 next time)

175ml warm water

1/2 tsp sugar (my addition as I wasn’t sure how old the yeast was and wanted to give it a fighting chance)

Put the flour into a bowl.

Add the salt, yeast and sugar. Stir with a balloon whisk to air it a bit.

Add the water, and bring the mixture together with a knife, or with your fingers so it’s a ball of dough.

Flour the work top and knead the dough for ten minutes. Lorraine's way of kneading looks a bit like the wax on, wax off bit from Karate Kid and it really works. Push away with one hand, bring it back. Push away with the other hand, bring it back. It was far easier on my back so I could knead for longer.

The dough will become pliable and elastic. Really, it will. If the yeast is live, it will work. You have NO IDEA of the triumph I felt when the dough turned elastic.

Shape it into a long sausage shape, and place on an OILED or LINED baking sheet (I used a non stick baking liner which is a godsend that I got from Lakeland) and cover with oiled cling film.

Leave it to rise in a warm place for an hour. (I don’t have an airing cupboard so I just left the oven open for a bit while the dough rested on the hob)

After an hour it will have doubled. Yes, I was very surprised about this.

I took off the cling film, snipped a decoration in the top with some scissors, brushed it with olive oil and popped it into the oven at 200C for 1/2 an hour.

(Lorraine said to get the oven hot and then add some water to create a steamy environment. I forgot. SEE BBC? You should have put the recipe and method on the website!)

Then I squeaked a lot as it rose even more.

1/2 an hour later, and I had a lovely, dense crumbed but springy loaf resting on a cooling rack – and no-one was more surprised than me.

I served it up with some home cooked ham that I’d done in the slow cooker with apple juice and cinnamon.

French bread and ham   Pain close up slice

15/12/2011

Greek Homestyle Pork or Hirino Spithkasimo

 

Now, before I start, I will say for the record that there is one sure fire way to annoy me good and proper, and that is to be a TV food show presenter who doesn't even attempt to say a Greek name but just takes the piss, even though the French and the Spanish names were attempted without fuss. Seriously, if you can’t say it, then don’t bother, use the English version - but don’t make a bunch of noises and then pull a face. Yes, Amanda Lamb, I am looking at you.

Anyway.

I saw this recipe on Market Kitchen, back in the heady days when Mediterranean food didn't just mean Italian and Spanish, it included many other countries, and it also meant that the utterly delectable Tonia Buxton was on the show a lot more. That lady is fabulous and, unlike many other celebs, answers her emails when you write to say thank you. Nigel Slater does too.

I watched Tonia cook this and then went straight out and bought the things to make it. I was NOT disappointed at all.

Easy, very few ingredients and a fabulous dish to bung in the oven and leave to cook away on its own when you’re busy off doing other things.

Greek style pork - Hirino spithkasimo

Ingredients

1kg shoulder of pork, cut into fist size pieces - I used leg, less fatty.
1kg Cyprus potatoes peeled and halved if very large
olive oil, for drizzling
1 tsp ground cinnamon
2 tsp ground cumin
3 onions, peeled and sliced lengthways
5 tomatoes (more if in season) sliced lengthways - I used a can of Italian chopped, as I had no fresh

Method

Put the pork and potatoes in a large earthenware dish/ovenproof casserole.

Pour a good drizzle of oil in the dish and mix around well. Add the spices and mix again.

Lay the onions and tomatoes over the top pour over a little more oil and season.

IMG_2651

Cover with foil and cook in a hot oven (200C) for around 1 hour, then lower the heat to 180C and remove the foil and cook for another hour till browned. Keep an eye on it to ensure it doesn’t burn. (This is what the original recipe said, but I cooked it in a pot with a lid, and kept the lid on until the last half an hour.)

Serve straight from the dish with a rocket salad they said but I served it with green beans. I loathe rocket!

It’s great on the day, but even better the next. The mix of cumin and cinnamon is quite a Middle Eastern flavouring, but then Tonia is a Cypriot, and many of our dishes have that Middle Eastern influence. Even the language does. When I was trying to learn Greek, my Athenian teacher would often tell me off because I used the ‘wrong’ word.

Not wrong, just Cypriot. Smile